This Guide was created by Team executor Member “X” visit source link to say thank you.
Disclaimer – I take no responsibility if you damage your slim, follow this guide at your own risk.
1. First remove the 2.5″ hard drive. To get to it just pull back on a couple of the fins which will let you remove a part of the cover:
2. Yanking on the black ribbon will pull out the hard drive itself.
3. Next we have two plastic grates on the left and right of the system that pop right off. They are attached using clips along their edges so work one part out with your flat head driver and just pull the rest off.
4. The side without the hard drive pops out just as easy. I used the thin screwdriver to prize up one end of the plastic grate and pulled it the rest out with my fingers. Be careful not to scratch the case.
5. This next part is the first of two hard parts. Removing the two plastic grates will reveal two more black plastic covers. You can wedge your flathead between the plastic cover and the rest of the system and pry it off.
TIP: Some users remove the chrome surrounds without taking out these black plastic covers – so you could always skip parts 5, 6, 7 & 8 and go straight to removing the chrome bezels (Note: some slims that are refurbs have the matt black plastic case and the bezels are black not chrome) – all you have to do it unclip one side of the black plastic cover to reveal the chrome bezel clips so you simply unclip one side then the rest should pull out easily. I only include these separate parts of the tutorial so you can actually see what each piece looks like
6. The cover is attached to the system by several plastic stands that fit through little holes behind them. The stands are wider at their outer most edge than they are at the base, too wide to just fit through the hole.
7. Stick your screwdriver in one of the cutouts and pry away. You’ll see a lot of flexing and then hear a pop, once you hear one move to the next portion of the plastic cover. Do this around the edge until the entire cover is removed. Repeat for the other side of the 360.
8. Now you’ve got line of sight into the system itself. Great. At this point you can also remove the 802.11n wireless card which is held in place by a single screw. Remove the T8 screw and the card slides right out. It is just plugged into an internal USB port.
9. Now we have to remove the two chrome surrounds on either side of the system. These are attached via clips that can be tempted loose using that trusty flat head screwdriver. Wedge it between the clip and the rest of the chassis and push away from the chassis:
10. Some clips will give way easily, others will take some coercion. Some of the clips are only accessible via a very tiny, very long flat head. Start with the clips you know you can get off and then try to pry the tough ones later.
11. You’ve got 6 on one side and 5 on the other chrome lip, the shots below should help you.
12. With the two chrome surrounds removed we’re now at the second most difficult part of dissecting the new Xbox 360. Remember these little things:
13. Yep, they’re back.
On the old 360 you at least had a removable face plate and some insight into what was going on at the rear of the system. This time around you can only look in at the sides..
Thankfully I know exactly how many clips you have to break free: three on the back and eight on the front.
I started on the back, got the clips loose then moved to the front. You need to access clips at both the left and ride side of the Xbox 360. A flashlight can be very handy here. Remember you’ve got clips at both the top and the bottom of the Xbox to work free at the front. Don’t worry if you snap a couple of these clips, everything still fits back together nicely.
14. The only advice I can give you here is to be patient, persistent and have a good flathead screwdriver at your side. Once you’ve pried these clips free the front will separate from the rest of the system.
15. Be careful when removing the front of the system. There’s a ribbon cable that connects the 360‘s power button to the rest of the system, you have to remove it before you can proceed. In my original teardown the ribbon cable just ripped right out of its connector without any problems so if this happens to you, you should be ok.
16. The ribbon connector attaches here. With the front removed, separate the clips on the back and the top cover of the 360’s should lift right off exposing what we have below:
17. Now look at the side of the Xbox with the white sticker on it, you only need to remove the 5 black T8 screws (one of them is actually hidden under the white Xbox 360 sticker. It looks like Microsoft has done a lot to figure out whether or not you’ve opened this thing. Modders don’t make Microsoft happy. RRoD didn’t make me happy. Modders ftw).
I could now pull off the bottom cover leaving me with this:
18. The DVD drive lifts right out and you can disconnect the power and SATA cables from the unit easily just like on the older models.
19. This is a newer version of the Lite-On drive. The new DG16-D4S. Microsoft also outfitted the drive with a strip of rubber to help dampen vibration:
And that’s it
This guide is not my work and i take no credit for it. All credit goes to “X” on Team Executor for making this easy to follow guide. Please hit up the source link and sign up to Team executor and say Thanks as this kind of work takes a lot of time to produce.
Source – Team Executor
Latest posts by Ryan Oneill (see all)
- Samsung’s latest monitors have built in wireless charging – July 27, 2015
- Black Ops 3 multiplayer beta start’s August 19th – July 23, 2015
- Moto Maker for the 2015 Moto G leaks – July 23, 2015